September 1, 2015

Incredible India

India is one of those places that is on everyone’s ‘bucket list’ however they never seem to make it there.

India is indeed incredible…. and a bit nerve-racking, for a foreign female tourist to visit. All the latest news stories involve tourists and rape. There were multiple times in our trip planning where we almost cancelled everything. Such a shame, for a country full of beauty and history, to be plagued by such a horrible current reputation.

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In light of this, we decided to try to “blend in” as much as possible. Our research showed that long skirts and scarfs would be our best friends in India. Thankfully, D.C. is such a well-mixed mixing pot that I had my choice of Indian clothing shoppes to check out. I tried on so many salwar kameez outfits, it was hard to choose! I wanted to get them all.

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Salwar kameez is a 2-piece outfit, baggy pants and a long shirt. The pants are typically loose at the top with a slight taper at the ankle, sometimes referred to as pajamas (I like anything that resembles pajamas!). The top can resemble a dress, with slits at the waist to enable movement (cue bollywood dancing). The scarf is optional and usually worn across the shoulders. I’m not really sure why I have such an affinity towards Indian fashion.

Here is proof of my Indian sari obsession, I designed my Vietnamese Bridal Ao Dai after being inspired by the ornate gold detailing of sari fabric.

ao dai
Photo by Diana Lupu Photography

We flew out of New York JFK via Dubai to Delhi, India on Emirates Airlines. Let me tell you, all that hype about Emirates ranking in the top of all the ‘Best Airlines of the Year’ lists are valid! Emirates is now my favorite airline. The flight attendants wear red lipstick and a beautiful hat with a red scarf. We flew in the new A-380 plane, the world’s largest passenger airplane with a second story for first class. The curry meals were delicious and I loved the wood paneling details in the cabin.

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Arriving into Delhi wasn’t much of a culture shock for me. Having frequently traveled throughout Southeast Asia, I felt right at home. Delhi immediately felt like a dusty Saigon.

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I love how women wear these beautiful saris & salwar kameez even while doing heavy lifting and casual walks to the market!

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Our first meal in India was OF COURSE: Basmati rice, chicken tikka masala and curry with naan.

 

Has anyone else noticed that eggs in India have a very pale yellow yolk? This is in contrast to the bright vivid orange yolk of Vietnam and bright yellow in the U.S.
Has anyone else noticed that eggs in India have a very pale yellow yolk? This is in contrast to the vivid orange yolk of Vietnam and bright yellow in the U.S.

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For breakfast, we had a regional specialty called Dosa. It’s unique to South India and is a rice-lentil crepe stuffed with veggies and sauces/ chutney. We enjoyed the dish so much that the Chef gave us a mini-cooking lesson!

Our first stop in exploring Delhi was Qutub Minar:

Qutub Minar
Qutub Minar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s incredible to know that construction for this site started in the year 1199 CE.
Qutub Minar is a 74 meter tower made of red sandstone and marble, covered in verses from the Qur'an.
Qutub Minar is a 74 meter tower made of red sandstone and marble, covered in verses from the Qur’an.
The detail in these columns!!!
The detail in these columns!!! (Side Note: females make sure you cover your legs and shoulders!)
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Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi, India
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Humayun’s Tomb is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Notice anything... smart?
Notice anything… smart?
Lassi, an Indian yogurt drink
Lassi, an Indian yogurt drink
Garlic Naan
Garlic Naan
BRAIN CURRY: It was actually really good! Flavorful and turned out to be the best dish at the entire table.
BRAIN CURRY: It was actually really good! Flavorful and turned out to be the best dish at the entire table.
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We took Rickshaws through the market. The lanes are so narrow deep inside the market that cars can’t get through.
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The hustle of a Delhi street market

 

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If you saw how many Indian spices we bought, you’d think we were crazy. And you’re right!

I wanted to completely raid this Indian fabric shoppe. Serious regret right now.

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On our road trip from Delhi to Agra, we passed by TONS of these party buses. They were jacked up with HUGE speakers and looked like we missed a great party.

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Holy cow! No, really… holy cows. India loves their cows. The animal is worshiped and never eaten, allowed to roam freely. They’re protected by national laws. Our driver told us that if you accidentally drive into a cow you are sentenced to 10 years in prison. I’m not sure how valid his statement is, but shows how special these creatures are!

The drive from Delhi to Agra takes about 3 hours on the brand new Taj Express Highway. A beautifully paved road, smooth and easy journey!


 

We woke up as the sun was rising and headed over to the entire reason we traveled to India… to see the Taj Mahal.

The entrance gate of the Taj Mahal in the romantic sunrise morning mist
The entrance gate of the Taj Mahal in the romantic sunrise morning mist
It's true, you can't ever have the Taj to yourself even in the early morning. But this small crowd sure does beat the afternoon mass!
It’s true, you can’t ever have the Taj to yourself even in the early morning. But this small crowd sure does beat the afternoon mass! Note: Selfie sticks and all food/drink including gum are prohibited.

Really fun fact: look at the giant onion dome of the Taj. Do you see the little piece at the top sticking out? It’s called a ‘finial’ and was originally shielded in gold. Our tour guide told us it was after the British rule of India, in the middle of the night, that it was stolen and left it as a bronze finial. Further research tells me if was taken during the Jat despoilation… either way, how did they reach it??

Hands down most stunning reflection pond in all the land.
The Taj Mahal is a mausoleum built by the Mughal Emperor as a tomb for his beloved wife. She passed away during childbirth of their 14th child! Construction started on the Taj in the year 1632 and to this day remains a symbol of true love.
Truly magical experience visiting this palace of love
Look closely at the 4 minarets (towers). Each one was built with a slight tilt AWAY from the center building to prevent damage to the main structure in the event of an earthquake. The leaning towers of Taj!

A longstanding myth is that Shah Jahan planned to build a Black Taj Mahal across the river from the White Taj Mahal. He was overthrown by his son, so construction was never started.

Beauty in the details, everywhere
Beauty in the details, everywhere
From where I stand, even the flooring is art.
From where I stand, even the flooring is art.

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To enter inside the Taj Mahal, you must wear shoe covers even over sandals. Yes I felt like I was scrubbing into surgery!
To enter inside the Taj Mahal, you must wear shoe covers even over sandals. Yes I felt like I was scrubbing into surgery!
I think I took photos of every single door in the Taj.
I think I took photos of every single door in the Taj.
These marble panels are cut from one solid piece of marble! ONE!
Marble hand carved windows
"Namaste" is the traditional greeting in India (hello and goodbye). In Hinduism it means "To bow to the divine in you"
“Namaste” is the traditional greeting in India (hello and goodbye). In Hinduism it means “To bow to the divine in you”
Leaving the Taj, we saw many wild monkeys and non-wild camels.
Leaving the Taj, we saw many wild monkeys and non-wild camels.

 

Agra Fort is just 2km from the Taj Mahal and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Agra Fort is just 2.5km from the Taj Mahal and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This gorgeous red sandstone walled city is still used by the Indian military.
This gorgeous red sandstone walled city is still used by the Indian military.

Shah Jahan, the Emperor-commissioner of the Taj Mahal, was deposed from office by his son and kept under house arrest here, at the Agra Fort. From his room there is a beautiful view of the Taj and the river.

Agra Fort is like an oasis!
Agra Fort is like an oasis!
Magnificent detail everywhere
Magnificent detail everywhere
Doors within doors with detail upon detail
Doors within doors with detail upon detail
The white marble is so cooling to the touch and to the feet, especially in the brutal summer.
The white marble is so cooling to the touch and to the feet, especially in the brutal summer.
These columns and arches are everything.
These columns and arches are everything.

The architecture and Mughal history wasn’t the only intriguing thing to me that day. I was constantly enamored with all the fabulous Indian fashion around me! I felt underdressed in my salwar kameez. Here’s a sampling of some of the sharpest ladies in Agra, March 2015.

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And let’s not forget the best dressed man in India:

His shoes are curved upwards, just like his moustache. Love this guy.
His shoes are curved upwards, just like his mustache. Love this guy.

 

Our last stop in Agra was Fatehpur Sikri, the ghost city!
Our last stop in Agra was Fatehpur Sikri, the ghost city!
To enter the mosque inside Fatehpur Sikri, we had to cover our heads with plastic hats that looked like mini colanders. So cute!
To enter the mosque inside Fatehpur Sikri, we had to cover our heads with plastic hats that looked like mini colanders. So cute!
Fatehpur Sikri was a beautiful capital city in its time, but was abandoned right after construction was completed due to lack of water source!
Fatehpur Sikri was a beautiful capital city in its time, but was abandoned right after construction was completed due to lack of water source!

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India is so unique in that there are so many wild animals roaming the streets. Wild monkeys are everywhere, even in a crowded city like Delhi. Wild pigs, goats, cows are also a common sight in Agra. I loved seeing all the nature, but also saddened to see the horrible upkeep of trash and disposal adjacent to these animals. The country has so much beauty, but it’s hard not to be tainted by the garbage everywhere.

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Look at the left edge of the photo... see something happening in white??
Look at the left of the photo… see something happening in white??

I hope this “real” side of India does not dissuade you from visiting the country. Our trip consisted of so much good (and spicy) food, we never felt unsafe, and no one in our group ever got food poisoning or sick! That is surely a sign of success, considering the adventure-eating.


 

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I love finding unique potato chips when I travel! This is a “thing” that I do, as a self-proclaimed chip queen. These were our two favorites from the trip.

Our last meal was perhaps the most “adventurous”… at McDonald’s! I avoid it in the States but since (most) Indians don’t eat beef… I had to see what kind of menu was offered.

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In every country I visit, I like to stop in at McDonald’s- not to eat, (yes for the free wifi) but to compare the prices and Burgernomics of The Economist’s Big Mac Index. Click here for the explanation I won’t even try to put into my own words.

McDonald’s verdict in Delhi: not cheap, no free wifi and the Chicken Maharaja Mac tastes alright (I didn’t die).

The only beer we could find was Kingfisher, so with this I thank you & cheers for reading about Incredible India.

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Namaste,

Mel

All photos taken by Melllypoo unless otherwise noted.